Find one or build one. A secret closet for Merlot - you know, somewhere you can go drink Merlot without anyone knowing that you drink Merlot? This way you won’t feel embarrassed and no one can find you to beat you up because it’s not cool to drink Merlot. I had forgotten how great this grape variety can be and really have not had a bottle of fine Merlot in quite some time. By inestimable odds, the cult Hollywood movie, Sideways, completely and single-handedly decimated this wine’s market causing everyone to dumpster-toss their remaining bottles of the stuff in favor of Pinot Noir. I’m here to tell you: now more than ever, disregarding Merlot is a mistake.

At a recent wine tasting (hosted by Lori Wise at Lake Travis Wine Trader and Republic’s erudite Jerome Chladil) that featured lots of Darioush, some Cakebread, Duckhorn, and Swanson, there was a very fine 2006 Merlot from Blackbird, a winery that was under my radar. Admittedly there’s thousands of those. As the tasting theme was ‘New World’ vs ‘Old World’ it was pitted against Duckhorn, who of course has been around since the mid-seventies. Blackbird’s current owner purchased the vineyards in Napa’s Oak Knoll District in 2003 and it seems this estate has done well so far with all of their varietals; most of their offerings run in the 90+ points range.

Still only 302 cases of Blackbird’s Merlot, named “Arise”, were made but it’s definitely worth pursuing. This winery is going places so keep an eye out. Blackbird Arise slammed my palate with very rich, dark fruit, ripe and integrated tannins, and an impressively long, dimensional finish. Merlot can be soft, Rubenesque, and even soporific but this was really exciting and fine, showing us that Merlot can transcend its reputation, which domestically has been beat with a large stick by mediocre wineries.

Beyond Napa's Blackbird, Merlot is the star grape variety in Bordeaux Right Bank, producing some of the most incredible (and expensive) wines in the world like Château Pétrus, Château Lafleur, and Château Le Pin and Château Cheval Blanc to name a few, from the world-famous appellations of Pomerol and Saint-Émilion. These wines sell for hundreds to thousands of dollars per bottle routinely at auction and are mostly or completely Merlot driven. And contrary to popular belief Merlot has the most acreage under vine of any varietal in Bordeaux, eclipsing Cabernet Sauvignon by a significant amount. 

My Blackbird experience reminds me that I just need to get back into enjoying Merlot because there are still producers out there doing great things with this grape (including Duckhorn). Besides, sales growth in Pinot Noir has finally leveled out to a paltry 11.6% per year according to the latest industry figures (yeah, who wouldn't love that number these days?). Blackbird Arise sells for about $60 per bottle, which is very reasonable given the value of enjoyment and someday perhaps, we’ll even be able to come out of the Merlot closet.

As a final note: buy everything Darioush and thank me later. A case of their Signature Cabernet Sauvignon will be quite acceptable.

David Boyer