I am never unhappy about having to eat my own words. It only means that whatever issue I once had, has somehow been ameliorated. Just when I was loosing faith in what I considered the once-noble field of a sommelier, my faith is renewed. As I pointed out in an earlier post entitled Sommelier Jr. (http://blog.classof1855.com/2009/01/26/sommelier-jr-2.aspx) with greater frequency I seemed to be having more negative experiences with people who are considered wine professionals. 
On a recent Sunday afternoon the historic Driskill Hotel in downtown Austin hosted an excellent wine event that I did not want to miss. From an enophile’s viewpoint. the Driskill is a veritable treasure trove, whose cellar is worth more than some small countries; the depth of world-class wines here in this legendary Austin hotel is impressive. The event compared new world against old world in three of Spain’s most important regions: Rioja, Ribera del Duero, and Priorat.

Besides the event being very well planned and executed, the wine knowledge at the Driskill is at a very high level. Wine Director Brian Phillips and sommelier Sean Tupper are exemplary in every way – defining what every sommelier must aspire to become: deep with wine knowledge (not just what is on their own wine menu but having consciousness about the real world); an above-average sense of how to express and convey that knowledge to others at every level of the spectrum; actual diverse wine tasting experience, not just textbook knowledge; and of course food pairing and service acumen.

I remember in my much younger years having the great opportunity to dine in what would have been considered five-star restaurants in great food cities like Chicago, Washington DC, New York and Atlanta. In each of these fine establishments, there would be a sommelier (then commonly known as a wine steward) with a little metal cup hanging around his neck. These were very definitely old world gentlemen with expansive wine knowledge - many were British and so bloody proper they verged on being intimidating. But everything about them was fabulous and classy in my young, impressionable mind.

The later generations of sommeliers seemed to me, less engaged somehow, insouciant even, and never quite ascended to the same level as the older, traditional wine stewards. I know there are very fine sommeliers out there and my fortuitous meeting with Brian and Sean proves it beyond doubt. These men are the ones who have the ability to elevate the once-noble field back to the again-noble field of being a sommelier. Well-done gentlemen.

As for the wines, maybe it’s just me but the old world wines just have infinitely more character, elegance and dimension. The expression of grape and terroir really were apparent in this Sunday afternoon smack down as the new worlds tended to taste quite similar compared to each other and were just less compelling than the old world wines. I’d be curious to hear if you have experienced a similar tasting with old against new, and if so, what the out come was. Talk to me.

Here’s to Sommelier Sr.s everywhere!

David Boyer